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	<title>Landscaping-Lawn-Care.com</title>
	<link>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com</link>
	<description>Everything about Yard Work, Lawn Care, Landscaping, Gardening</description>
	<pubDate>Tue, 03 Jun 2008 16:04:27 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Sealing the waterfalls on your pond</title>
		<link>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/06/14/sealing-the-waterfalls-on-your-pond/</link>
		<comments>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/06/14/sealing-the-waterfalls-on-your-pond/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jun 2007 19:05:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Waterscapes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/06/14/sealing-the-waterfalls-on-your-pond/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A problem that some people will run into when creating a simple waterfalls to go into their outdoor pond/waterscape is water leaking out through the rocks making up the sides of the waterfall. There are some great products for fixing the leaks. The most popular being-
Black Waterfall Spray Foam - 12oz Can
A 12oz can of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A problem that some people will run into when creating a simple waterfalls to go into their outdoor pond/waterscape is water leaking out through the rocks making up the sides of the waterfall. There are some great products for fixing the leaks. The most popular being-</p>
<p><strong>Black Waterfall Spray Foam - 12oz Can</strong></p>
<p>A 12oz can of Black Expanding Spray Foam.</p>
<ul>
<li>Great for filling in gaps in your waterfall stones as well as attaching a waterfall stone to your waterfall filter.</li>
<li>Dries tack free in about 5 minutes depending on moisture and temperature    conditions.</li>
<li>A 1&#8243; bead at room temperature can be cut within one hour.</li>
<li>Expands about 3-1 Ratio</li>
<li>Includes nozzle for spraying in tight locations</li>
<li>Expands to fill gaps and voids</li>
<li>Seals to most water garden materials including most liners, waterfall    filter boxes, skimmers and more</li>
<li>1/2&#8243; Bead Yields Approximately 340 Lineal Feet per 12oz. can</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Planting Trees and Shrubs</title>
		<link>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/05/15/planting-trees-and-shrubs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/05/15/planting-trees-and-shrubs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2007 19:19:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/05/15/planting-trees-and-shrubs/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you&#8217;re planting new trees and shrubs this spring, don&#8217;t spoil them by enriching the soil with organic matter. A hole full of compost and soft organic matter is a comfortable area for the roots, and they aren&#8217;t likely to spread into the surrounding soil. If the roots don&#8217;t anchor themselves firmly by spreading, the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you&#8217;re planting new trees and shrubs this spring, don&#8217;t spoil them by enriching the soil with organic matter. A hole full of compost and soft organic matter is a comfortable area for the roots, and they aren&#8217;t likely to spread into the surrounding soil. If the roots don&#8217;t anchor themselves firmly by spreading, the plant is likely to be toppled by strong winds. Here are a few other tips on planting trees and shrubs:</p>
<ul>
<li>Labels attached to your plant by wires can girdle the branch, so remove them when you plant.</li>
<li>Set the tree in the soil at the same level that it grew in the nursery. Look for a dark mark on the trunk that indicates the depth.</li>
<li>To protect the trunk from sunscald, rodents, and lawnmower nicks, use a treewrap from soil level to the lowest branch.</li>
<li>If you use mulch, don&#8217;t allow it to touch the trunk of the tree.</li>
<li>Check your plant from all angles to see that it is sitting straight before filling the hole.</li>
<li>Stakes often cause more damage than they prevent, so use them only when planting in a windy, unprotected area, or if you are planting a top-heavy tree. If you use a stake, leave an inch or two of slack in the wire and cover the part that encircles the tree with a protective covering.</li>
</ul>
<p>From <a href="http://GardenGuides.com">GardenGuides.com</a></p>
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		<title>How much sun does your garden really need?</title>
		<link>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/05/15/how-much-sun-does-your-garden-really-need/</link>
		<comments>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/05/15/how-much-sun-does-your-garden-really-need/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2007 19:10:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Garden Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/05/15/how-much-sun-does-your-garden-really-need/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Vegetables prefer a full day of sun, but if you live in a shady suburb you don&#8217;t have to give up the idea of growing vegetables. Here are some minimum sunlight requirements:

Fruiting Vegetables - 8 hours of sun This includes tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and vine crops such as cucumbers, melons, and squash.
Root Vegetables - 6 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Vegetables prefer a full day of sun, but if you live in a shady suburb you don&#8217;t have to give up the idea of growing vegetables. Here are some minimum sunlight requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Fruiting Vegetables - 8 hours of sun This includes tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and vine crops such as cucumbers, melons, and squash.</li>
<li>Root Vegetables - 6 hours of sun Carrots, beets, etc.</li>
<li>Leafy Vegetables - 4 hours of sun These are your &#8220;greens&#8221; such as lettuce, spinach and collards.</li>
</ul>
<p>*Keep in mind that these are minimums. Increasing the amount of sunlight your vegetables receive will increase the yield and quality of your crop.</p>
<p>*Even though your vegetables may get enough light when planted near a tree, they will not get enough nourishment and water. Vegetables can&#8217;t compete with an established tree for essential nutrients and moisture.</p>
<p>From <a href="http://GardenGuides.com">GardenGuides.com</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Controlling Insects with Dormant Oil Spray</title>
		<link>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/04/26/controlling-insects-with-dormant-oil-spray/</link>
		<comments>http://www.landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/04/26/controlling-insects-with-dormant-oil-spray/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Apr 2007 02:11:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://landscaping-lawn-care.com/2007/04/26/controlling-insects-with-dormant-oil-spray/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dormant                  oil is a nontoxic spray to control sucking and chewing insects                  in the egg stage before they can do any [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Dormant                  oil is a nontoxic spray to control sucking and chewing insects                  in the egg stage before they can do any damage. Use dormant oil                  on trees, shrubs and evergreens in early spring while they are                  still dormant, before buds develop. You can buy the spray from                  any garden supply store or make your own from mineral oil and                  soap using the following recipe: </font><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">1 gallon mineral                  oil<br />
1 pound oil-based soap<br />
1/2 gallon water </font></p>
<p><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Combine all                  ingredients, boil, and mix very well. Dilute 1:20 with water and                  use immediately because the ingredients separate quickly. </font></p>
<p><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Spray on a                  day when the temperature is above 40 degrees and you are not expecting                  a freeze for at least 24 hours. Drench the branches of your shrubs                  and trees thoroughly - it&#8217;s impossible to overdo it. </font></p>
<p><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">For citrus                  trees, you should buy a special dormant oil from your garden supply                  store. Citrus leaves can be damaged by the film that remains on                  the leaves.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">From                              <a href="http://GardenGuides.com" target="_blank">GardenGuides.com</a></font></p>
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